Tuesday, 31 August 2010

Azure waters and wild seas





The pretty streets of Valdemossa

The amazing gorge at La Colobra

Our last few days in Minorca were spent in peaceful anchorages, no shops, jet skiers etc just lots of sapphire blue sea and just a few boats, most of them returning home by dusk.

Walked the Roman remains again at Puerto Nitge, Anders' favourite anchorage, then sampled Cala Pregonda with its moonlike landscape and red and cream rocks, all showing signs of the drama of the winter storms. After a windy night the beaches were full of jelly-fish so we were pleased to move on to Cala S'Escala where we were surrounded by French boats. It seems the French and Germans are in abundance this year with very few British yachts.

The trip to Majorca was uneventful with little wind. It took seven and three quarter hours until we slid into our anchorage outside Alcudia harbour and opened a longed for beer. After the solitude of the past days Alcudia was like being propelled into a package holiday with little means of escape! It was Sunday evening and as supplies were low we decided to dingy in for dinner. The shock of seeing so many people and having to actually sit in a crowded bar next to them, made us very twitchy. We downed a pizza and a bottle of house wine and returned to the peace of Moonshadow. Are we becoming boat hermits and losing the ability to socialise?

Next morning Alcudia took its revenge as we woke to strong winds blowing into the harbour. We left early in search of a more sheltered anchorage. With over 20 knots of wind and swell it was an exceedingly fresh passage to Cala Molta, a beautiful anchorage we had visited before when we left for Minorca. Here we enjoyed crystal clear waters and great snorkelling with lots of sea bass swimming around.
The next day we sailed to Pollensa in about 12 knots and took a mooring in the Port Authority marina for the same price as Porto Cristo (€35.33) Stayed here two nights and chatted to Jean and Maggie who had left their home country of Switzerland to sail the world. Our images of Switzerland were shattered when they told us that mists descend into the valleys in the autumn and stay until Spring creating a damp and depressing environment. We were also introduced to their four month old blue-nosed Amazon parrot Tropicano who could live to the grand old age of 40 years!
Little wind next day meant we had to motor down the northern coast of Majorca towards Soller. The scenery was stunning. Towering cliffs streaked in all colours from the wind and waves. Cala Calobra, a deep gorge through which the Torrent de Pareis thunders down in the winter opened spectacularly to a small stony beach where bathers were shrunk to the size of tiny dolls in the shadow of such towering cliffs.



Soller harbour and the electric tram that takes you from the port to Soller town

Soller harbour was our next stop to avoid a strong north easterly forecast for the next morning. We arrived just after midday and were told all the moorings were booked but if someone did not turn up by 7pm then we could have theirs. We anchored in the middle of the bay and decided to ride out the swell and wind there. It turned out to three very bumpy nights and days! We took advantage of the bad weather and visited Soller town one day and Valdemossa the next. The bus ride, mainly on the wrong side of the road at every bend was as stunning as the town. We were glad we were not coming round the opposite corner, especially after we witnessed a motor cycle accident en route.
We met another 'Moon Shadow' under the helm of German student Margareta and her grandfather who had sailed across the Atlantic in their newly purchased 32 footer. Also witnessed the arrival of a massive three masted schooner called Adix and owned by a British company.
Set off for the return to Sant Carles Marina at 10.30 am on August 31 arriving to a beautiful sunrise at 8.30am – 22 hours later. Saw very few other ships or yachts during the night whilst taking turns with the watch.
The night crossing was very 'rolling' in the following swell but as always held the magic of being alone in a vast Mediterranean sea under a starry sky.

Sunrise as we returned to base at Sant Carles marina